Shoot in daylight, outdoors against a plain background. Start with a full side profile, then cover every angle, drivetrain, cockpit, any damage. Clean the bike first. Eight to twelve photos is the sweet spot.
Taking Great Listing Photos
Buyers scroll hundreds of listings a week. Good photos stop them; bad photos do not. The difference between a quick sale and weeks of silence is usually half an hour of effort with a phone, a clean rag and a patch of daylight.
Before You Start
- Clean the bike. A wipe-down, clean drivetrain and polished frame takes ten minutes and lifts the photos instantly. Dust, old bar tape and a dirty chain make an Excellent bike look like a Good one.
- Pump the tyres. Flat tyres make a bike look neglected even if it is not.
- Position the cranks. Put the drive-side crank roughly horizontal and pointing forward (three o'clock). Standard across every good listing.
- Put the bike on a level surface. Lean against a plain wall or use a bike stand. Bikes lying on the floor never look good.
- Shoot in daylight. Outdoors, overcast day, mid-morning or mid-afternoon. Avoid direct midday sun (harsh shadows) and indoor tungsten lighting (yellow cast).
The Core Twelve Shots
In order:
1. Drive side, full bike. The headline shot. Crisp, square-on, fills the frame. 2. Non-drive side, full bike. The complement. Same angle, same distance. 3. Three-quarter front. Stepping back and to the front, showing the front of the bike and the drive side. 4. Three-quarter rear. The opposite angle, rear wheel and non-drive side. 5. Front on. Straight on from the front. Handlebars level, fork centred. 6. Rear on. Straight on from behind. Shows wheel true and frame alignment. 7. Drivetrain close-up. Chainset, cassette, chain, derailleur. The most scrutinised components. 8. Cockpit. Handlebar, stem, shifters, brake levers, bar tape, headset. 9. Saddle and seatpost. Any branded saddle or upgraded post earns its own shot. 10. Wheels and tyres. Close enough to read the tyre brand and size; spokes visible. 11. Frame number. Clear and in focus. This is mandatory, a listing without a visible frame number raises red flags for buyers. 12. Any marks, scratches or wear. Honest close-ups. Hidden damage is the single biggest source of Buyer Protection disputes.
Add more where it helps: service history paperwork, original purchase receipt, upgraded components, accessories included in the sale.
Framing and Composition
- Fill the frame with the bike, not the background. Get close enough that the bike occupies at least two-thirds of the shot.
- Shoot at bike height, not standing-adult height. Crouch down, the bike looks bigger, longer and more purposeful. Photos taken from above make it look small and awkward.
- Keep vertical elements vertical. The seat tube should be vertical in the shot, not leaning. Stand directly perpendicular to the bike for side shots.
- Plain background. Clean wall, tidy driveway, fence, garage door. Avoid other bikes, bins, cars and clutter.
What Not To Do
- No filters, no saturation boosts, no retouching. Adjusts apparent condition and triggers disputes.
- No dark garages. Almost impossible to show condition accurately. Wheel the bike outside for ten minutes.
- No hidden damage. Photograph scratches, chips, dents and worn parts. Describe them. Price accordingly. Honest listings sell faster and more often.
- No blurry shots. One sharp photo is worth three shaky ones. Brace the phone against a wall or use a timer.
- No stock photos. Only photos of the actual bike you are selling. Using manufacturer marketing images is a terms-of-service breach.
Shooting Electric Bikes
For e-bikes, add:
- A close-up of the motor (make, model, wattage visible).
- A close-up of the battery with the capacity label visible.
- A photo of the display showing power-on and, if possible, total miles ridden.
These reassure buyers that the electrical system is genuine, functional and not heavily used.
Quick Checklist
- Bike clean, tyres pumped, cranks at three o'clock.
- At least twelve photos, daylight, no filters.
- Both sides full, front-on, rear-on, three-quarter angles.
- Drivetrain, cockpit, saddle, wheels.
- Frame number clearly shown.
- Any wear photographed honestly.
- Plain background, close enough to fill the frame.
Strong photos are the single highest-leverage change you can make to a listing. A Good-condition bike with twelve excellent photos outsells an Excellent-condition bike with three poor ones, every time.
Frequently asked questions
What camera should I use?
Your phone is fine. Any smartphone from the last five years takes better photos than most compact cameras. Good light matters more than expensive equipment, and camera skills matter more than either.
How many photos should I take?
A minimum of eight, ideally twelve or more. Buyers scroll quickly, and more photos means more reassurance that nothing is being hidden. Higher listing packages support more photos, see our [pricing page](/pricing).
Should I photograph damage and wear?
Yes, clearly and honestly. A listing that shows a small scratch and acknowledges it in the description sells for more than one that hides it and triggers a Buyer Protection dispute on arrival. Hidden damage costs more time and money than upfront honesty ever will.
Is a plain background really that important?
Yes. A cluttered garage with bins, boxes and other bikes makes your bike look cheaper than it is. A plain wall, a tidy patio or even a clean driveway lifts the perceived quality significantly for no extra cost.
Can I use filters or edit the photos?
Minor cropping, straightening and light-level correction are fine. Filters, saturation boosts or heavy retouching are not, they change the apparent condition and invite disputes on arrival. If a photo needs a filter to look good, the underlying photo needs redoing.