Price It Right
The biggest mistake sellers make is pricing emotionally. You remember what you paid; buyers don't care. They'll compare your bike to every other listing online and buy the best value.
How to price your bike:
- Check real sold prices, not asking prices. Use Cyclesite's sold prices to see what similar bikes actually changed hands for. An asking price of £1,200 means nothing if identical bikes are selling for £900.
- Be honest about condition, Excellent means barely ridden, no marks. Good means normal use with minor cosmetic wear. Fair means it works but shows its age. Most bikes are "good." Price accordingly.
- Factor in the groupset, A Shimano 105-equipped bike sells for 20-30% more than the same frame with Tiagra. If you've upgraded components, mention them prominently.
- Leave negotiation room, Price 10-15% above your target. Every buyer expects to negotiate. If you price at your minimum, the first "would you take £X?" feels like an insult.
Photography Matters More Than You Think
Good photos are the single biggest factor in how fast your bike sells and what price you get. A dark, blurry photo in a messy garage says "I don't care about this bike." A clean, well-lit photo says "this bike was looked after."
The essential shots (minimum 6):
- Drive side full bike, the classic angle. Clean the bike first.
- Non-drive side, shows the frame condition without chainring obstruction.
- Groupset close-up, derailleur, cassette, chainrings.
- Handlebars/cockpit, shows the bar tape condition, shifters, stem.
- Frame number, builds instant trust. Serious buyers look for this.
- Any damage or wear, be upfront. A photo of a scratch is reassuring; a surprise scratch at viewing kills deals.
Pro tips:
- Shoot outdoors in daylight, never with flash
- Clean the bike and degrease the drivetrain first